My uncle Peter became a sailor at the beginning of the second world war. He was not allowed at that time to join the Royal Navy because of his age. So he became an apprentice in the Merchant Navy on the basis of being 16 years old although in fact he was only 15. His ship, the S.S.Chumleigh, sailed in one of the convoys to Russia in 1942. Just off the coast of Norway a U-boat found its target and Peter was next in the freezing cold waters, swimming for safety. He was amongst several who were able to reach land but he developed pneumonia and died. In Tromso there is a very large cemetery and in it a small area known as the English Cemetery dedicated to those who died in the war. In there are the graves of Peter, and three of his colleagues who had also reached land but did not survive.
Much to the sadness of Peter’s relatives none had the opportunity, to visit his grave. I was a very small girl. and just remember seeing him as a young man, in uniform before joining his ship. Over the years I knew of my mother’s and grandmother’s wish to see his grave before they died. My grandmother, and no doubt my grandfather too, in particular suffered for the remainder of their lives because they had given permission for him to join up early.
When I knew we would be going to Norway with my family in search of the northern lights I became determined to find and visit his grave. The journey on the Hurtigruten Ferry from Bergen included a stop in Tromso , so that part of travel arrangements was easily accomplished On request for their help an e-mail to the tourist office came back with a reply to say that the grave had been located and that a council worker could meet us at our hotel in the morning and take us to the cemetery.
Eventually the day came. We had travelled by air from London to Oslo, then train to Bergen and finally by ferry to Tromso. Meeting the council worker for the next morning was arranged at reception who thoughtfully provided us with a large candle and matches to put on Peter’s grave. Sharp on 9 o’clock a truck arrived and we were on our way to the main cemetery which lies high on the mountain side overlooking a wide vista of rock and snow. We could see on the other side of the huge valley, over a long bridge crossing the river, the modern Arctic Cathedral Tromso.
The English Cemetery is a small dedicated and hedged area within the main cemetery. It is a beautiful and peaceful place. During the night there had been a heavy covering of snow and the staff had cleared it from around Peter’s grave. We were able to read his epitaph and place the lighted candle on the earth. We prayed for Peter, took photo’s and talked with those who tend his grave so lovingly I only wish that my mother and grandmother could have visited.
War Grave in Norway
Jenny Bunn